Block Paving Driveways

• Concrete blocks: The most common choice. They come in a wide range of colours, sizes and finishes, including tumbled blocks with softened edges for an aged look.
• Clay pavers: Fired clay with rich, natural colours that do not fade. They are very hard-wearing and suit period houses.
• Permeable blocks: Blocks with wider joints filled with grit, laid over a free-draining base, so rainwater soaks through the surface.
• Borders and details: A contrasting border, a band across the drive or a pattern at the entrance can frame the driveway.

• Herringbone: Blocks laid in a zigzag at 45 or 90 degrees. It is the strongest pattern for driveways, because the blocks lock together and resist the turning force of car tyres.
• Basketweave: Pairs of blocks laid at right angles to each other. It is a traditional look, better suited to paths and light traffic areas.
• Stretcher bond: Rows of blocks laid like brickwork, with a clean, simple look. It is best laid across the direction of traffic.
• Random or multi-size: Blocks of different sizes laid together for a natural, stone-like effect.

We recommend herringbone for most driveways that take cars.

1. 1

   Excavation: the old surface and soil are dug out to the right depth for a driveway.

2. 2

   Sub-base: crushed stone is laid in layers and compacted with a plate compactor to form a firm, even base. This is the most important stage, because a thin or poorly compacted sub-base is what makes block paving sink and rut.

3. 3

   Edging: kerbs or edging blocks are set in concrete to hold the paving in place.

4. 4

   Drainage: the surface is laid to falls away from the house. Channel drains or a soakaway are added where needed.

5. 5

   Laying course: a screeded bed of sharp sand is spread to an even level.

6. 6

   Blocks: the blocks are laid in the chosen pattern and cut neatly at the edges and around manholes.

7. 7

   Jointing and compaction: kiln-dried sand is brushed into the joints and the surface is compacted, locking the blocks together.

The finished surface should sit at least 150 millimetres below the house damp-proof course. Manhole covers are replaced with recessed covers so they can be paved in.

Standard block paving is not fully permeable. The joints are tight and filled with fine sand, so most rainwater runs off the surface. It then has to be directed to a drainage channel, a soakaway or a lawn or border within your property.

Permeable block paving is designed to let water through. It has wider joints filled with grit, laid on an open, free-draining sub-base, so rain soaks into the ground below. It is a good option for front gardens. Rainwater is dealt with on your own land, which usually means no planning permission is needed.

For houses in England, you usually do not need planning permission if the driveway is permeable, or if rainwater runs off to a permeable area within your property. You will need permission to lay more than 5 square metres of impermeable paving that drains onto the road. A new dropped kerb always needs council approval, and the work on the pavement is carried out by the council or its approved contractor. We design the drainage so your driveway meets the rules.

A well-laid block paved driveway can last for decades. How long depends mostly on what is underneath: the depth and compaction of the sub-base, firm edging and good drainage. Clay pavers keep their colour longer than concrete blocks, and good-quality blocks resist wear better. Because individual blocks can be lifted and relaid, repairs after drain works or minor sinking are straightforward and do not leave a patch.

Weeds grow in the joints when sand washes out and dirt and seeds settle in. To keep them down:

• Keep the joints full: Top up the kiln-dried sand whenever the joints look low.
• Sweep regularly: Brush off soil and leaves before they break down in the joints.
• Seal the paving: A sealant helps bind the jointing sand and makes the surface easier to clean.
• Use a stabilised jointing compound: It sets in the joints and resists weeds better than loose sand.
• Take care with pressure washers: They can blast the sand out of the joints, so always re-sand afterwards.