Bespoke Garden Sheds

• Side passage and narrow sheds: Built to the exact width of a side return or alley, with access where you need it.
• Corner and angled sheds: Shaped to fit an awkward corner or a plot that is not square.
• Lean-to sheds: Built against a wall or fence, with a single-slope roof.
• Bike stores: Secure, with space and hooks for the bikes you have.
• Bin stores: A neat front or side store with lift-up lids and doors.
• Workshops: Larger sheds with a strong floor, benches, windows for light and power for tools.
• Combined stores: A shed with a log store, tool wall or garden storage built in.

If you want a room to sit or work in rather than storage, see our summer house construction service.

• Frame: Pressure-treated structural timber, sized for the span and the load, so the shed does not twist or sag.
• Floor: A solid timber floor on treated bearers, raised for airflow, or a floor built directly on a concrete base for workshops.
• Cladding: Shiplap, tongue and groove or feather-edge boards, in a thickness chosen for strength and security.
• Roof: Solid roof boards covered with roofing felt or a rubber EPDM membrane, with gutters if you want to collect rainwater.
• Doors and windows: Single or double doors sized for what goes in, with security hinges, locks or hasps, and safety glazing.
• Base: A concrete slab, paving or a timber frame base suited to the ground. The base options are explained on our shed installation and repair page.

For a standard size in an open, level space, a bought flat-pack shed is usually cheaper to start with. A bespoke shed is better value when:

• the space is an awkward size or shape that standard sheds do not fit
• you need a shed that is stronger, more secure or better built than flat-pack sheds in your budget
• you need a particular layout, such as a bike store, bin store or workshop
• the ground slopes and a standard shed would need a raised base anyway

We will tell you honestly if a bought shed installed on a proper base would suit you better.

• Pressure-treated softwood: The usual choice for the frame, floor and bearers. The treatment protects against rot and insects, which matters most for timber near the ground.
• Treated softwood cladding: Shiplap or tongue and groove boards shed rainwater well. Thicker boards give a stronger, more secure shed.
• Cedar: A naturally durable timber for cladding that can be left to weather to a silver-grey. It costs more than softwood.
• Sheet materials: Exterior-grade plywood or OSB for roof boards and floors.

Softwood cladding can be stained or painted to match your fence or house.

For a house, there is no fixed floor area limit outside protected areas. The limits are on height and position:

• Near a boundary: Within 2 metres of a boundary, the shed can be no more than 2.5 metres high. Most sheds are built to this so they can go close to the fence.
• Further from the boundary: The eaves can be up to 2.5 metres, with an overall height of up to 4 metres for a dual-pitched roof, or 3 metres for other roofs.
• Garden coverage: Outbuildings and extensions together must not cover more than half the land around the original house.
• Position: Not in front of the house.

A shed under 15 square metres of floor area does not normally need building regulations approval. Flats, listed buildings, conservation areas and Article 4 areas have extra controls. See our conservatories and outbuildings page for the full rules.

For a workshop or a shed you use at night, we can install lighting and sockets on a separate supply with RCD protection, certified through our domestic electrical installation service.